Mont Blanc Course Details

The effort required to reach the summit of Mont Blanc is not to be underestimated.
Candidates must have a good overall level of fitness. You will not get any fitter during the week, so arrive with good preparation behind you !
We will spend three days above 3000m in order to acclimatise. Stages of the climb will increase in steepness and length to help legs adjust.
We will begin the course with an introduction to crampon technique and rope work.
A ‘reserve day’ is foreseen in case of bad weather- much improving our chances of making it to the top.

Arrival day- Saturday

PM - Arrival and settle in for group members at the Eden hotel.

Welcome drink during the late afternoon, with your guide for the week, who will be there to answer all those burning questions you may have. As a group you will then discuss the programme for the week, weather forecast etc

A particular close inspection of your equipment will be necessary, and these will be considered together and always remembering that 'light is right' ...only take what is really necessary!
Those of you who have reserved equipment via Chamonix Guiding will be equipped with all gear following the briefing sessions.

Day 1- Sunday

Wake up to the best continental breakfast in Chamonix valley prior to the arrival of your guide at 09.00.

Take the Montenvers train up to the Mer de glace for a day of 'ice school' and preparation at 1900m.
Revision/teaching of crampon techniques and the proper use of your ice axe

Specific consideration of rope work and movement together, rope knots and ice belays.

Glacier travel up to the Moulin (the mill of the glacier) and ice climbing (with technical axes) in order to familiarise yourself with your equipment.

Return to the hotel for the end of the afternoon and an evening in Chamonix.

Day 2 - Monday

Pick up at 09.00 for a transfer to the Gaillands rock climbing area followed by the ascent up to the Albert 1er hut (2702m) in the afternoon. The morning session will be dedicated to the appreciating and understanding rock climbing technique. Placing of protection on rock and climbing with the use of rock shoes. This session is often highly appreciated and recommended by participants as it will give you greater confidence in your abilities and level of technique on the approach to the refuge de Goûter.

Picnic near the lovely lac du Gaillands in the valley.

Afternoon

Ascent to the Albert 1er refuge (hut) (2702m, 700m by cable car). Fantastic hike along the lateral moraine of the glacier du Tour until we reach the refuge (approx 2 hours) - your cameras will be constantly clicking! We will arrive at the refuge by the end of the afternoon and in plenty of time to see the evening sunset.

Meal and night at the refuge

Timetable
6 to 7 hours - climb +570m

Day 3- Tuesday

Ascent of L'aiguille du Tour

Early morning start after a breakfast at the refuge. Today we start to acclimatise properly with our first day going above 3000m. Continual development of rope work and glacier travel technique as we traverse the glacier du Tour for the Col superieur du Tour at 3289m. We will then find ourselves on the Plateau de Trient on the French-Swiss border and will hopefully enjoy the superb early morning sun of the Mont Rose massif. We insist on using safety techniques on all snowy slopes during the day.
The ascent of the L'aiguille de Tour will be mixed, with both snow and rock to consider but at the summit you will enjoy the superb views of the nearby Northerly peaks of the Argentiere Valley: Droites, Aiguille Verte, Dolent ...

Descent by the end of the morning to the refuge and then on down to the valley floor by our ascent route.

Night at the Eden Hotel.

Timetable :
9 to 10 hours,
Climb +840m/ - 1400 m

Day 4- Wednesday

A well earned half day of rest in the morning before hiking up to the Tête Rousse hut ( 3167 m ) late in the morning. Your guide will transport you to the Bellevue cable car at the village of Les Houches in the south of the Chamonix Valley. Ascent will take place under the imposing presence of l'Aiguille de Bionnassay (4052) until you reach the Tete Rousse refuge at 3167m. A new built cosy and comfortable hut offering a pleasant rest before waking up at 1.30 a.m to start the ascent...

Timetable :
2 to 3 hours. Climb : + 800m

Day 5- Thursday

We will reach the summit of Mont Blanc via the standard route. From the Tête Rousse hut, a two hours scramble will lead us up to the Gouter Hut to enjoy the early sunrise. We will have a long break at the Gouter hut to recover before cramponning up the Taconnaz glacier leading to the Gouter Dôme ( 4304 m), half way up to the summit. Descend via the normal route to Tête Rousse after a long break at the Gouter on the way down.

Champagne !

Timetable :
11 to 13 hours. Climb +1640m / -1640m

Day 6- Friday

This day could be used as a reserve day in case of bad weather on day 5. Usually we would have summited the day before. Breakfast at the Tête Rousse hut and hike down to the Nid D'aigle train back to the car. Return to the hotel Eden around mid day.

End of the course.

Timetable :
2 hours. Climb -800m

Supplementary information

Training / Supervision

• English speaking Mountain Guide (IFMGA qualified)
  Groups
• 4 persons maximum for increased security
• 1 guide for days 1 to 3 for acclimatisation and learning of mountaineering techniques
• 2 guides for the climb of Mont Blanc. Ratio 1 :2

Accomodation

• In the manned refuges for 3 nights and otherwise in the valley at hotel Eden
  Meeting point
• The evening before at 18 :00 at your accommodation, to meet each other and check on material.